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Friday, 2 June 2017

Greetings from Madonna di Campiglio

Whilst going over the Stelvio pass yesterday was certainly a bit of a challenge, the plan for today was actually a bit tougher. The idea was to do three pretty serious climbs the first of which, The Gavia pass at 2652 meters, is only 100 meters less than Stelvio.
We had a rather inauspicious start, as we were getting ready after breakfast, Graham somehow managed to let all the air out of his tyres and Chris’ bike fell over and bent the gear derailleur. Spanners and pumps out and after some emergency repairs, we were off at about 08:30.
First climb of the day

The road up to the Gavia pass is narrow and twisty as it picks its way up the side of the mountain. Today, for some reason, there really were swarms of German motorcyclists out.  So much so, that what had been a noisy irritant on previous days became bloody dangerous today. You’d be pedalling round an acute corner on this narrow road, only to be confronted with a couple of blokes on these huge machines who seemed to think they were the dominant players in some sort of medieval joust.

Our irritation seemed to be shared by a good number of fellow lycra clad heroes and heroines on the road. Lots of individuals and groups of cyclists of all ages, were heading for the pass – a couple were even older than Graham (who’s nearly a pensioner).

The cafe at the top of the pass was busy, lots of bikes (with and without engines) and a long wait of a rather expensive cappuccino.
Chilly at the Gavia pass

The descent was really interesting, I remember on a previous trip, Chris had left his bike hanging off the railings on one high mountain corner, making out he’d disappeared over the edge (ha! Ha!). No such fun and games here, the danger was all too real. A tiny road with an awful surface clinging to the side of the mountain and no barriers between you and an untimely death - should you be hit by one of the motorcyclists, who seemed to think it was amusing to ride 2 abreast on a road hardly wide enough to walk down; you couldn’t let your concentration slip for one second.
Bad roads, great views

This down was swiftly followed by the next up. The road to the 1883 meter Tonale pass was a real relief. Wide, good tarmac with only a few of those sudden, leg killing kicks up. In a great bit of timing we got to the restaurant at the top with seconds to spare before the threatening sky unleashed a hail storm of truly Alpine dimensions. Another pasta lunch looking longingly out of the window hoping that what had now turned into a downpour would stop. No such luck. Waterproofs on and into the driving rain for a cold wet trip down the mountain.
... and the rain came

By the time we got to the bottom, Graham was spectacularly grumpy. He explained to Harley that at his age (he’s nearly a pensioner) his body which has suffered years of self inflicted abuse, can only take on enough oxygen to service either his legs or his brain, there’s simply not enough for both. For Graham, this explains why, when the hills become steep, he becomes emotionally challenged. An interesting theory, not one worthy of too much academic study we concluded.
A subject worthy of study?

The last hill took us up to Campo Carlo Magno at 1702 meters. Hotel Garni Caminetto is good, big comfy rooms and all sitting round, glued to our phones like a bunch of teenagers.
Teenagers, only in one sense...

Last day tomorrow. Aim to get to Verona about 18:00, Inshallah!

Keep you posted...


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